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Tiller guts

22 Mar 2015 12:03 #11 by Trouty56
Replied by Trouty56 on topic Tiller guts

Kyblue wrote: They really are simple ... I'll need to put a chain in mine this winter.

Be sure when you put the seals in, mine were in different directions ... one kept oil in, one kept dirt out ... not sure if that's factory or if the p/o did that...they were leaking so....might not be so good...I did put put them back like that, and the the new seals don't leak. However I have a pulley shaft seal leaking now...

I was told the same thing....however, on this tiller the seals were both the same way....not sure what is best....there was a space a little space between the seals....do you think grease would help between the seals??? Without lubrication I would think the outer seal would not last too long...

Bob T
Adams County Pennsyltucky

"One, that's easy to remember. It's the first number in the alphabet...." - Barney Fife

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22 Mar 2015 12:33 - 22 Mar 2015 12:38 #12 by Trouty56
Replied by Trouty56 on topic Tiller guts

GT 14 wrote: If you can get em for 12$ that is the way to go. Even buying left and right you may need the other in the future.

Here is an example of the D series tine...left side which I think is looking at the rear of the tiller....it curves to the left side....

http://www.tiller-blades.com/C-Blades/6275-TORO/flypage.tpl.html?keyword=toro

15 bucks shipping though....that is almost 30 bucks a tine....

Bob T
Adams County Pennsyltucky

"One, that's easy to remember. It's the first number in the alphabet...." - Barney Fife

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22 Mar 2015 12:58 #13 by Kyblue
Replied by Kyblue on topic Tiller guts

Trouty56 wrote:

Kyblue wrote: They really are simple ... I'll need to put a chain in mine this winter.

Be sure when you put the seals in, mine were in different directions ... one kept oil in, one kept dirt out ... not sure if that's factory or if the p/o did that...they were leaking so....might not be so good...I did put put them back like that, and the the new seals don't leak. However I have a pulley shaft seal leaking now...

I was told the same thing....however, on this tiller the seals were both the same way....not sure what is best....there was a space a little space between the seals....do you think grease would help between the seals??? Without lubrication I would think the outer seal would not last too long...


I don't think using some grease would hurt a thing. Actually I think it's a great idea...and I'm sorry I didn't think of it when i did mine
There's room for all god's creatures ..... next to the mashed potatoes (and possibly bbq'd)

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22 Mar 2015 17:31 #14 by GT 14
Replied by GT 14 on topic Tiller guts

Trouty56 wrote:

GT 14 wrote: If you can get em for 12$ that is the way to go. Even buying left and right you may need the other in the future.

Here is an example of the D series tine...left side which I think is looking at the rear of the tiller....it curves to the left side....

http://www.tiller-blades.com/C-Blades/6275-TORO/flypage.tpl.html?keyword=toro

15 bucks shipping though....that is almost 30 bucks a tine....


They say there hardened and coated. Maybe worth it.
1969 GT-18
1978 C-101
1983 C-225

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22 Mar 2015 19:48 #15 by Trouty56
Replied by Trouty56 on topic Tiller guts

GT 14 wrote:

Trouty56 wrote:

GT 14 wrote: If you can get em for 12$ that is the way to go. Even buying left and right you may need the other in the future.

Here is an example of the D series tine...left side which I think is looking at the rear of the tiller....it curves to the left side....

http://www.tiller-blades.com/C-Blades/6275-TORO/flypage.tpl.html?keyword=toro

15 bucks shipping though....that is almost 30 bucks a tine....


They say there hardened and coated. Maybe worth it.

Found another place.....
http://www.cleancutter.com/cat_alpha_frame.htm

Bob T
Adams County Pennsyltucky

"One, that's easy to remember. It's the first number in the alphabet...." - Barney Fife

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23 Mar 2015 06:09 #16 by GT 14
Replied by GT 14 on topic Tiller guts

Trouty56 wrote:

GT 14 wrote:

Trouty56 wrote:

GT 14 wrote: If you can get em for 12$ that is the way to go. Even buying left and right you may need the other in the future.

Here is an example of the D series tine...left side which I think is looking at the rear of the tiller....it curves to the left side....

http://www.tiller-blades.com/C-Blades/6275-TORO/flypage.tpl.html?keyword=toro

15 bucks shipping though....that is almost 30 bucks a tine....


They say there hardened and coated. Maybe worth it.

Found another place.....
http://www.cleancutter.com/cat_alpha_frame.htm


If I am reading it right hardened and coated would run about 18$
1969 GT-18
1978 C-101
1983 C-225

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24 Mar 2015 13:22 - 24 Mar 2015 13:25 #17 by Trouty56
Replied by Trouty56 on topic Tiller guts
So I ordered a tine from this outfit.....

www.cleancutter.com/cat_alpha_frame.htm

Actually I ordered 3.....I need a left so I ordered an extra left and a right for spares.....so I got 3 plus shipping was less than 30 bucks.....I'll get some pics when they arrive....

I just got regular ones (20% discount no less).....I can face them here if I think they are needed.....I'll be plowing the ground over so I doubt I will need hardened tines.....

Bob T
Adams County Pennsyltucky

"One, that's easy to remember. It's the first number in the alphabet...." - Barney Fife

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24 Mar 2015 13:39 #18 by GT 14
Replied by GT 14 on topic Tiller guts

Trouty56 wrote: So I ordered a tine from this outfit.....

www.cleancutter.com/cat_alpha_frame.htm

Actually I ordered 3.....I need a left so I ordered an extra left and a right for spares.....so I got 3 plus shipping was less than 30 bucks.....I'll get some pics when they arrive....

I just got regular ones (20% discount no less).....I can face them here if I think they are needed.....I'll be plowing the ground over so I doubt I will need hardened tines.....


Thats a good deal! Are you still welding or using the bolt holes?
1969 GT-18
1978 C-101
1983 C-225

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24 Mar 2015 14:15 - 24 Mar 2015 14:16 #19 by Trouty56
Replied by Trouty56 on topic Tiller guts
I have to weld this one on.....there isn't a stub to bolt it to. It is broken at the shaft....take a little grinding and bracing but I think it will be fine.... You know a guy could make a shaft up with bolt on plates and have a set of these bolt on tines....would take 12 a side...then you would be set to go....

Bob T
Adams County Pennsyltucky

"One, that's easy to remember. It's the first number in the alphabet...." - Barney Fife

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24 Mar 2015 15:30 #20 by GT 14
Replied by GT 14 on topic Tiller guts

Trouty56 wrote: I have to weld this one on.....there isn't a stub to bolt it to. It is broken at the shaft....take a little grinding and bracing but I think it will be fine.... You know a guy could make a shaft up with bolt on plates and have a set of these bolt on tines....would take 12 a side...then you would be set to go....


Yea a little work up front could save in the long run. Is the D set-up that way?
1969 GT-18
1978 C-101
1983 C-225

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