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New Member 416-8 Onan
- GoBucks
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16 Jan 2017 11:55 #1
by GoBucks
New Member 416-8 Onan was created by GoBucks
First, we had two Wheel Horses when I was a kid. Back in 2009, my JD LT-133 was being torn up by the rough yard we had. Three of the four engine to frame bolts sheared off and the muffler broke away from the engine. The deck bearings were getting really loud as well. I had purchased the JD as a 1 year old Demo model in 2001. I sold it for $750, so I did pretty well.
I then drove from Huntsville, AL to Indianapolis to buy the 416. I did some major sanding and painting originally, I never got around to the hood or fenders though.
Now, it's really hard to start when cold, even though I keep it on a trickle charger and after getting a new battery. The oil gets really dark in a hurry. It runs really good though, and has plenty of power. It doesn't really smoke, except when I first start it and then when I power it down. I thought it might need a rebuild, but the shop thinks it's a combination of the starter (which I also guessed, due to a similar problem with a car once.) The shop also thinks it could use a carb rebuild.
So, new starter, carb job, basic oil change, blades sharpened, etc. parts would be a little over $1,000, labor is $50 an hour, he guessed it would be $1,500 or more total.
A standard Cub Cubet, etc, just won't work too well. I have a small yard, but the front yard is a hill with a retaining wall. It's between 30 and 45 degrees. With the the Wheel Horse, I can put it in LOW range, and it climbs like a goat. Which is my concern with new/used tractors, even Hydros, would I be able to prevent wheel spin? I considered going to Home Depot or Lowes, buying a Cub Cadet, trying it, and returning it if it slips to much. I really like the Wheel Horse(s) though, and don't know that I will be living at this house forever. Someday I may move to a larger yard, or up north and need a snow blade, etc. My only negative on the Wheel Horse is it cuts too low.
I have a few options:
1. Fix it, but it will still need an engine rebuild in a few years, due to the dark oil.
2. Leave it and run it as it is, mabye just use a battery charger/booster to jump start it. See how long it lasts, just change the oil, etc.
3. But a Restored or used Wheel Horse
4. Re-Power it. I was directed here because of the work GT14 did. So, there are two sub options here.
4a. Harbor Freight Engine, $700
4b. Honda engine with wiring, etc complete kit for $2,180
So, any suggestions, option #1 seems to be out, unless I can find a starter motor rebuild kit instead.
I then drove from Huntsville, AL to Indianapolis to buy the 416. I did some major sanding and painting originally, I never got around to the hood or fenders though.
Now, it's really hard to start when cold, even though I keep it on a trickle charger and after getting a new battery. The oil gets really dark in a hurry. It runs really good though, and has plenty of power. It doesn't really smoke, except when I first start it and then when I power it down. I thought it might need a rebuild, but the shop thinks it's a combination of the starter (which I also guessed, due to a similar problem with a car once.) The shop also thinks it could use a carb rebuild.
So, new starter, carb job, basic oil change, blades sharpened, etc. parts would be a little over $1,000, labor is $50 an hour, he guessed it would be $1,500 or more total.
A standard Cub Cubet, etc, just won't work too well. I have a small yard, but the front yard is a hill with a retaining wall. It's between 30 and 45 degrees. With the the Wheel Horse, I can put it in LOW range, and it climbs like a goat. Which is my concern with new/used tractors, even Hydros, would I be able to prevent wheel spin? I considered going to Home Depot or Lowes, buying a Cub Cadet, trying it, and returning it if it slips to much. I really like the Wheel Horse(s) though, and don't know that I will be living at this house forever. Someday I may move to a larger yard, or up north and need a snow blade, etc. My only negative on the Wheel Horse is it cuts too low.
I have a few options:
1. Fix it, but it will still need an engine rebuild in a few years, due to the dark oil.
2. Leave it and run it as it is, mabye just use a battery charger/booster to jump start it. See how long it lasts, just change the oil, etc.
3. But a Restored or used Wheel Horse
4. Re-Power it. I was directed here because of the work GT14 did. So, there are two sub options here.
4a. Harbor Freight Engine, $700
4b. Honda engine with wiring, etc complete kit for $2,180
So, any suggestions, option #1 seems to be out, unless I can find a starter motor rebuild kit instead.
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16 Jan 2017 13:24 - 16 Jan 2017 13:27 #2
by Geno
Replied by Geno on topic New Member 416-8 Onan
Welcome to the Stables GoBucks.
The first thing to consider is do you want to keep that tractor. Everything I do is based on cost unless there is sentimental value which is valid, like it was Dad's tractor.
If keeping the tractor is not an issue, from the figures I see it is cheaper to buy another even if it's just like it.
If you want to keep the tractor, it depends on what you want to do financially, put off the repairs to an engine that is prone to fail, or make a change now. I feel spending any money on this engine may be a waste of money in the future. The rebuild cost on an Onan is out of sight as well. The repower like GT did cuts to the quick and takes the money used in the repair of the Onan now and in the future and applies that money to a better engine that I feel will last longer, and have a lot more power. The tractor will last you as long as you want it to with proper maintenance, the engines were the only real problem with that tractor.
Buying anything newer would be completely out of the question for me. Everything is pretty much MTD manufactured and will need a lot of money spent on it in just a few years. That fact alone is what keeps us in business selling and restoring older, more reliable tractors that can last a lifetime.
Would love to hear what everyone else thinks.
The first thing to consider is do you want to keep that tractor. Everything I do is based on cost unless there is sentimental value which is valid, like it was Dad's tractor.
If keeping the tractor is not an issue, from the figures I see it is cheaper to buy another even if it's just like it.
If you want to keep the tractor, it depends on what you want to do financially, put off the repairs to an engine that is prone to fail, or make a change now. I feel spending any money on this engine may be a waste of money in the future. The rebuild cost on an Onan is out of sight as well. The repower like GT did cuts to the quick and takes the money used in the repair of the Onan now and in the future and applies that money to a better engine that I feel will last longer, and have a lot more power. The tractor will last you as long as you want it to with proper maintenance, the engines were the only real problem with that tractor.
Buying anything newer would be completely out of the question for me. Everything is pretty much MTD manufactured and will need a lot of money spent on it in just a few years. That fact alone is what keeps us in business selling and restoring older, more reliable tractors that can last a lifetime.
Would love to hear what everyone else thinks.
Welcome to the Stables!
Last edit: 16 Jan 2017 13:27 by Geno.
The following user(s) said Thank You: GlenPettit
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16 Jan 2017 20:10 #3
by GoBucks
Replied by GoBucks on topic New Member 416-8 Onan
Of note, I would have to pay the mechanic to do the engine swap, if he feels he can do it. The Harbor Freight engine is my first choice, if he can do it and it's not a huge labor bill. (over $1000)
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16 Jan 2017 21:07 #4
by Geno
Replied by Geno on topic New Member 416-8 Onan
Think you could do it with help from us? Especially from GT lol, where are you at GT. He's usually on first thing in the morning. There's not as much to it as you think.
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16 Jan 2017 23:12 #5
by JERSEYHAWG
Replied by JERSEYHAWG on topic New Member 416-8 Onan
that repower Gene talks about is probably your best / cheapest route. the onan rebuild is not for the weak of wallet, and might not work. best of luck.
Glenn
Glenn
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17 Jan 2017 04:25 #6
by nappypappy
1985 416-8
520-H
You can lead a horse to water but you can't make him drink.
I can't see the forest for the trees.
Replied by nappypappy on topic New Member 416-8 Onan
JERSEYHAWG wrote: that repower Gene talks about is probably your best / cheapest route. the onan rebuild is not for the weak of wallet, and might not work. best of luck.
Glenn
1985 416-8
520-H
You can lead a horse to water but you can't make him drink.
I can't see the forest for the trees.
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17 Jan 2017 09:03 - 17 Jan 2017 09:05 #7
by GT 14
Replied by GT 14 on topic New Member 416-8 Onan
Hey GoBucks the HF engines are great (Honda Clones) I used the 22 hp model but if you don't need that much the 13 hp engine they sell also has electric start. Shaft sizes on the HFs engines are 1" so you may have to use a bushing for the clutch. Its not a big job, on the smaller engine you would not even need to change exhaust. A good mechanic should be able to do it before lunch.
Geno could do it before his first coffee break.
Geno could do it before his first coffee break.
1969 GT-18
1978 C-101
1983 C-225
1978 C-101
1983 C-225
Last edit: 17 Jan 2017 09:05 by GT 14.
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17 Jan 2017 10:02 #8
by GoBucks
Replied by GoBucks on topic New Member 416-8 Onan
There is a 314-8 that looks to be in good condition from the pictures, clean anyway. Kohler Magnum with 1076 hours. He said the choke cable is frozen, but he has a new one. Also, the blades quit spinning when he got into some thick grass. I thought that might just need the deck belt tightened. or PTO to deck. He said there are some new belts with it was well. He only wants $550 for it, he just bought it a week ago to re-sell.
The engine swap is still my first choice, if I can get the mechanic to do the HF engine swap.
GT14, didn't you have to make your own engine mounts as well?
How hard was it to relocate the ignition switch to the dash, the wiring, etc?
What isn't just plug and play or that can be purchased anyway?
For the price difference, I'd just stick with the 22HP twin you had, it seems to sound like the Onan! :-) I don't mind the little mufflers you had, or I could haul it to a muffler shop, they could probably make an adapter to make the stock muffler work?
The mechanic/shop is closed until Wednesday, so I'll see what he says then. He had also mentioned the possibility of a re-power solution, he was going to look into it as well. The mechanic is on Redstone Arsenal here in Huntsville, at the Small Engine Repair shop:
https://redstone.armymwr.com/us/redstone/redstone-arsenal-events/small-engine-repair-auto-skills-center?eID=590759
Thanks,
Sam
The engine swap is still my first choice, if I can get the mechanic to do the HF engine swap.
GT14, didn't you have to make your own engine mounts as well?
How hard was it to relocate the ignition switch to the dash, the wiring, etc?
What isn't just plug and play or that can be purchased anyway?
For the price difference, I'd just stick with the 22HP twin you had, it seems to sound like the Onan! :-) I don't mind the little mufflers you had, or I could haul it to a muffler shop, they could probably make an adapter to make the stock muffler work?
The mechanic/shop is closed until Wednesday, so I'll see what he says then. He had also mentioned the possibility of a re-power solution, he was going to look into it as well. The mechanic is on Redstone Arsenal here in Huntsville, at the Small Engine Repair shop:
https://redstone.armymwr.com/us/redstone/redstone-arsenal-events/small-engine-repair-auto-skills-center?eID=590759
Thanks,
Sam
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17 Jan 2017 10:33 #9
by Geno
Replied by Geno on topic New Member 416-8 Onan
The 314 sounds like a really good deal.
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17 Jan 2017 10:53 #10
by GT 14
Replied by GT 14 on topic New Member 416-8 Onan
GT14, didn't you have to make your own engine mounts as well?
How hard was it to relocate the ignition switch to the dash, the wiring, etc?
What isn't just plug and play or that can be purchased anyway?
For the price difference, I'd just stick with the 22HP twin you had, it seems to sound like the Onan! :-) I don't mind the little mufflers you had, or I could haul it to a muffler shop, they could probably make an adapter to make the stock muffler work?
I made new motor mounts using flat stock. (engines needs to be moved left to line up)
Wires just need to be extended for the starter.
I reused the original choke and throttle set-up.
Just need a bushing for the clutch and maybe a new drive belt. (depending on where the engine ends up)
Pepper Pots mufflers are the cheapest alternative, I made flanges for the engine (block is not threaded) and welded 1" pipe on them to mount the pots. If you have clearance you might be able to use the muffler that comes with it (but its BIG)
How hard was it to relocate the ignition switch to the dash, the wiring, etc?
What isn't just plug and play or that can be purchased anyway?
For the price difference, I'd just stick with the 22HP twin you had, it seems to sound like the Onan! :-) I don't mind the little mufflers you had, or I could haul it to a muffler shop, they could probably make an adapter to make the stock muffler work?
I made new motor mounts using flat stock. (engines needs to be moved left to line up)
Wires just need to be extended for the starter.
I reused the original choke and throttle set-up.
Just need a bushing for the clutch and maybe a new drive belt. (depending on where the engine ends up)
Pepper Pots mufflers are the cheapest alternative, I made flanges for the engine (block is not threaded) and welded 1" pipe on them to mount the pots. If you have clearance you might be able to use the muffler that comes with it (but its BIG)
1969 GT-18
1978 C-101
1983 C-225
1978 C-101
1983 C-225
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